Reviewed · EDINBURGH TOURS

Private Old Edinburgh Tour – Walk in the footsteps of Royals and Rogues!

★ 5.0 · 229 reviews 2 hours (approx.) Operated by Historic Edinburgh Tours · Bookable on Viator
Book on Viator →

Edinburgh’s Old Town is best understood on foot, and this tour takes you beyond the postcard sights into its stranger corners: old execution sites, a prison linked to a notorious murder, Victorian poverty, and the stories of Mary, Queen of Scots, Bonnie Prince Charlie, Robert Burns, and Burke and Hare. Guide Robert uses archive images and a lively storytelling style to make vanished Edinburgh easier to picture.

I like the personal pace and the unusual route. You’ll see familiar places such as the Royal Mile and Greyfriars Kirkyard, but you’ll also hear about overlooked passages, courtyards, and streets that large group tours often pass by. I also like that Robert adjusts the walk to your interests, questions, and speed.

The main consideration is the subject matter. This is a tour about hangings, murder, prison life, and hardship, so it suits curious adults and older children more than families seeking a light sightseeing stroll. The two-hour walk also requires a moderate level of fitness.

Key points at a glance

  • Greyfriars begins the story: Meet inside the main gate of Greyfriars Kirkyard and hear the competing versions of Greyfriars Bobby’s tale.
  • Three former execution sites: The route explains Edinburgh’s public punishments and the grim role of the old Tolbooth Prison.
  • Royal Mile with a darker edge: See places tied to Mary, Queen of Scots, Bonnie Prince Charlie, Deacon William Brodie, and St Giles.
  • A closer look at ordinary life: Cowgate provides a short but useful picture of poverty in Victorian Edinburgh.
  • Burke and Hare in context: Learn how the infamous murderers operated and what happened to them.
  • A genuinely private format: Your group alone takes part, with a guide who can adjust the pace and discussion.

Why this private walk works well in Edinburgh

Private Old Edinburgh Tour - Walk in the footsteps of Royals and Rogues! - Why this private walk works well in Edinburgh

The Old Town can feel like a stage set at first. Castle rock rises above steep streets, the Royal Mile draws most of the foot traffic, and every close seems to promise a ghost story. But the city makes more sense when you understand how tightly packed life once was, how public punishment shaped daily routines, and how royal politics reached into ordinary streets.

This walk gives you that context in a compact two-hour route. It is not built around entering a long list of attractions. Instead, Robert uses streets, courtyards, churchyards, and former sites to tell connected stories. That matters in Edinburgh, where the building in front of you may be newer than the event being discussed, but the street plan often remains the same.

The private format is the biggest practical advantage. You are not trying to hear a guide over a large crowd, and you can stop for questions without holding up a busload of people. Past groups have included couples, families, and solo participants, and Robert has adjusted his explanations and pace to fit them.

Robert is a lifelong citizen of Edinburgh and works as a teacher. That combination shows in the way the tour is described: fact-based, but delivered with humor, props, photographs, and a clear story rather than a lecture. He is also known for wearing a kilt, which adds a bit of character without being the whole point of the experience.

More Walking Tours in Edinburgh

Greyfriars Kirkyard and the wee dog story

Private Old Edinburgh Tour - Walk in the footsteps of Royals and Rogues! - Greyfriars Kirkyard and the wee dog story

The meeting point is just inside the main gate of Greyfriars Kirkyard on Greyfriars Place. This is a sensible place to begin. The cemetery is atmospheric, central, and full of links to the city’s past, so you start with Edinburgh’s mood before moving into its streets.

The opening story concerns Greyfriars Bobby, the small dog associated with the kirkyard. Robert explains that several versions of Bobby’s story exist and lets you consider the evidence rather than simply handing you a polished legend. That approach sets the tone for the rest of the walk: expect familiar tales, but also questions about how Edinburgh’s stories were formed.

You spend about 15 minutes here. Admission to the tour stops is included, and the cemetery itself is free. Because the starting point is central, it is easy to reach from other Old Town sights, though you should allow time to find the correct gate and arrive ready to begin.

Candlemaker Row and the Grassmarket

From Greyfriars, the route moves along Candlemaker Row toward the Grassmarket. This section lasts about 25 minutes and connects the street layout with a major Edinburgh wedding and the pre-wedding party route associated with it.

The Grassmarket is one of the Old Town’s most recognizable open spaces, but its past is less polished than its cafes and colorful facades suggest. It was linked to trade, public punishment, and crowded urban life. The wedding story gives you a different way to read the area, showing how a personal event could affect the city and become part of its historical memory.

I like this stop because it keeps the tour from becoming a string of famous names. You are not only hearing about monarchs and criminals. You are also looking at how people moved through the city, celebrated, gathered, and marked important events.

The walk between stops is part of the experience. Edinburgh’s Old Town is hilly, and the streets can be uneven. Wear sturdy shoes and expect weather to affect the feel of the tour. The experience requires moderate physical fitness, and the operator may cancel if conditions are poor, offering another date or a full refund.

The Royal Mile’s royal, criminal, and political stories

The longest section takes about 40 minutes and covers several points along the Royal Mile. This is where the tour brings together royal biography, public punishment, church history, political rebellion, and crime.

You visit a place connected with Mary, Queen of Scots’ childhood, then continue to a small courtyard with a royal link. These stops show why the Royal Mile rewards a guide who knows more than the main street. The notable story is not always in the grand building ahead. Sometimes it is tucked behind an entrance or along a short passage that you might otherwise ignore.

The route also covers Deacon William Brodie and his hanging. Brodie’s story is especially well suited to Edinburgh because it mixes respectable public life with secret criminal activity. Robert presents the events in a way that lets you see both the individual and the city that judged him.

You then get a brief history of St Giles and visit the site of the old Mercat Cross. The cross was an important public point, and its connection with Prince Charles Edward Stewart, better known as Bonnie Prince Charlie, gives the stop political weight. This is a useful reminder that the Royal Mile was not just a shopping street or royal approach. It was also a place where power, announcements, punishment, and popular feeling met.

The section finishes near an atmospheric Old Town close, with a story tied to the old prison and one of Scotland’s most infamous assassinations. This is the tour’s darker side. If you enjoy crime stories with historical context, it should be memorable. If you dislike graphic or grim subjects, ask Robert how much detail to expect.

The route also includes views toward Edinburgh Castle from its hilltop position. You may not get a full castle visit on this tour, but the sight helps anchor the stories in the city’s physical setting.

Same country, a completely different kind of day out:

Cowgate and the lives below the main street

Cowgate receives about 10 minutes, yet it serves an important purpose. Many sightseeing walks stay on the Royal Mile and leave it at that. This tour drops down to a part of the Old Town associated with Victorian poverty and crowded urban life.

The stop helps balance the royal stories. Mary, Queen of Scots and Bonnie Prince Charlie are compelling figures, but most people in old Edinburgh were not monarchs or rebels. They lived in hard conditions, worked long hours, and occupied the lower levels of the city’s social order.

You should not expect a long social-history lecture here. The time is short. Still, Cowgate adds useful perspective and makes the walk feel less like a parade of famous people. It shows you a part of Edinburgh that can be easy to pass through without asking how people once lived there.

The University of Edinburgh and Burke and Hare

The final 30 minutes focus on two places connected with the University of Edinburgh. The first concerns William Burke and William Hare, the Irish murderers whose crimes became linked to medical anatomy and the demand for bodies.

Robert explains how the pair operated, why they were able to kill so many people, and what eventually happened to them. The value here is context. Their story is often reduced to a gruesome tale, but the tour places it within the conditions that allowed it to happen.

This section may be unsettling. The subject involves murder, exploitation, and the treatment of human bodies. It is not presented as a cheerful ghost story. If you are traveling with children, use your judgment and tell Robert at the start what level of detail is appropriate.

There may also be a chance to examine the traditional Highland clothing Robert wears. This sounds like a small detail, but it fits the tour’s informal style. You can ask questions rather than simply watch a guide recite prepared material.

The final stop is near Old College, or inside it if access is available. The building looks impressive today, but the story connected with it is more explosive in a literal sense. This ending shifts the mood again, combining a grand university setting with a dramatic event from the past.

You finish on South Bridge, around 10 minutes from the starting point at Greyfriars. That is convenient if you want to continue exploring the Old Town, visit another nearby attraction, or find a place for food.

Robert’s storytelling style and personal approach

The strongest feature of this experience is the guide. Robert’s background as a teacher helps explain why the tour is structured around stories rather than a list of dates. He has a talent for asking about your interests at the beginning and shaping the conversation around them.

That flexibility is useful on a private tour. You might want more royal history, more crime stories, more local detail, or more time for questions. You can also set a comfortable walking pace. Past groups have described him as humorous, enthusiastic, and personable, and his use of old photographs and playful props gives you something visual to connect with the vanished city.

The tone is irreverent at times. That works well for stories about Deacon Brodie, Burke and Hare, and Edinburgh’s old punishments. It may not suit you if you want a solemn academic lecture. Robert’s approach is more like a lively local history lesson delivered while walking through the actual streets.

What the $117.84 private price means

The listed price is $117.84 per group of up to one person. That wording is unusual, so check the final booking screen carefully if you are booking for more than one person. The important point is that this is a private activity, not a per-seat group tour.

For a solo traveler, the price buys personal attention and a route shaped around your questions. For a couple or small private party, the value depends on how much you care about a tailored walk and direct access to the guide. A cheaper public tour may cover some of the same streets, but it will not offer the same control over pace and subject matter.

The tour lasts approximately two hours. That is long enough to give you a useful Old Town orientation without taking over an entire day. I would schedule it early in your Edinburgh visit if possible. You can then use Robert’s local suggestions to guide the rest of your time, and several people have found his recommendations useful after the walk.

The tour is offered in English and includes a local guide. It uses a mobile ticket, and confirmation is provided when you book. Service animals are allowed, and the start and end points are near public transport.

Free cancellation is available up to 24 hours before the local start time. A cancellation within 24 hours is not refunded, and late changes are not accepted. Since the walk requires good weather, a weather cancellation brings the choice of another date or a full refund.

Who should book this Old Town walk

I would choose this tour if you want Edinburgh explained through stories, not just photographed from the outside. It suits first-time visitors who want an orientation, repeat visitors looking for lesser-known corners, and solo travelers who value a guide’s full attention.

It is also a good match for people who enjoy crime history, royal politics, unusual local characters, and the social story of a city. Families can book it, but the murder, execution, prison, and poverty material may be too dark for young children.

You should think twice if you want a gentle stroll with little climbing or a tour focused mainly on major interiors. The route is outdoors, weather matters, and entry to Edinburgh Castle or other paid attractions is not part of the experience. The emphasis is on streets, sites, views, and storytelling.

Should you book it?

Book this walk if you want a personal introduction to Edinburgh’s Old Town and enjoy history with a dark, humorous edge. Robert’s local roots, teaching background, archive images, and willingness to adjust the pace make the experience more flexible than a standard group walk.

Skip it if your main goal is entering major attractions or avoiding stories of murder and public punishment. Otherwise, the two-hour route gives you a strong sense of how royal ambition, crime, poverty, religion, and everyday life all occupied the same steep, crowded streets.

FAQ

Where does the tour start?

It starts just inside the main gate of Greyfriars Kirkyard, Greyfriars Place, Edinburgh EH1 2QQ.

Where does the tour end?

It usually ends on South Bridge, around 10 minutes from Greyfriars Kirkyard.

How long is the tour?

The walk lasts approximately two hours.

Is this a private tour?

Yes. Only your group participates in the activity.

What language is the tour offered in?

The tour is offered in English.

Who guides the tour?

The guide is Robert, a lifelong Edinburgh resident and teacher by profession.

What places are included?

The route includes Greyfriars Kirkyard, Candlemaker Row, the Grassmarket, several Royal Mile locations, Cowgate, and sites connected with the University of Edinburgh.

Does the tour include Edinburgh Castle admission?

No. The tour includes a view of Edinburgh Castle from its hilltop position, but castle admission is not listed as included.

Is the tour suitable for people with limited fitness?

A moderate level of physical fitness is required. The experience is a walking tour through Edinburgh’s Old Town.

What happens if the weather is poor?

If the experience is canceled because of poor weather, you will be offered another date or a full refund.

Can I cancel for a full refund?

Yes, if you cancel at least 24 hours before the experience start time. Cancellations made less than 24 hours in advance are not refunded.

More like this

Edinburgh Tours, compared.

The full Edinburgh Tours list →
Loch Ness, Glencoe & the Scottish Highlands Tour
★★★★★★★★★★4.6· 17,446 reviews· from $62

Loch Ness, Glencoe & the Scottish Highlands Tour

Read our review →
Harry Potter Magical Guided Walking Tour
★★★★★★★★★★4.8· 11,944 reviews· from $19

Harry Potter Magical Guided Walking Tour

Read our review →
Underground Vaults Tour
★★★★★★★★★★4.6· 11,758 reviews· from $32

Underground Vaults Tour

Read our review →
Edinburgh Castle: Guided Walking Tour with Entry Ticket
★★★★★★★★★★4.7· 11,699 reviews· from $49

Edinburgh Castle: Guided Walking Tour with Entry Ticket

Read our review →
Loch Ness, Glencoe & Scottish Highlands Tour
★★★★★★★★★★4.7· 11,381 reviews· from $61

Loch Ness, Glencoe & Scottish Highlands Tour

Read our review →
The World Famous Underground Ghost Tour
★★★★★★★★★★4.5· 9,272 reviews· from $26

The World Famous Underground Ghost Tour

Read our review →
Underground Vaults Walking Tour in Edinburgh Old Town
★★★★★★★★★★4.5· 8,506 reviews· from $33

Underground Vaults Walking Tour in Edinburgh Old Town

Read our review →
Edinburgh Castle Guided History Tour with Tickets
★★★★★★★★★★4.8· 7,747 reviews· from $50

Edinburgh Castle Guided History Tour with Tickets

Read our review →

Browse the lists this tour appears in

Scroll to Top

Where to go in Scotland

Pick a glen, a city or a distillery.